While the crowds fight for space at Senso-ji, Gokokuji Temple remains a 17th-century sanctuary of silence. From historical architecture that survived World War II to the slow rhythm of the neighborhood streetcars, here is how to experience the side of Tokyo that hasn't changed in decades.

Most tourists see Ameya-Yokocho as just a loud market under the tracks. But its soul was forged in the black markets of the 1940s. This is the story of how a street built on sugar and survival became the heart of Ueno—and why you need to visit it at 5:00 PM.

Trying to beat 14 hours of jet lag with the sensory chaos of Akihabara was a mistake that almost broke me. I had to scrap my own "No Sleep" rule to survive the night—and in the process, I found a midnight sanctuary in a neighborhood of books.